Readers Travel

A Subtle Thief of your Heart: Zambia (Part 2)

April 8, 2019

Victoria Falls is the apple crumble pudding, the chocolate cake with a hint of coffee, the cherry on top of the cake for this trip.
Its a why go to Zambia, if you are not going to see Victoria Falls! We are bubbling with excitement!
The tranquility of Palm Wood was the perfect place with comfortable beds, and that means a good night’s rest! Sleeping in, was exactly what we needed after a long drive. We spent the day in Lusaka, went to Manda Hill Mall (what is it about going to another country and visiting the biggest mall, I don’t get It! Don’t get me wrong I’m excited about this! This means shopping!). Shopping for all the things we would need for our drive to Livingstone and also just shopping. It is also the festive season.
On the morning of the 24th, sufficiently armed with directions on how to get out of the city we were headed for Livingstone. The almost suffocating heat of 36Ā°C welcomed us to Livingstone at 3PM šŸ˜µšŸ˜µšŸ˜µ. This time we don’t even bother with Google maps to find our lodge, gas station attendant directs us to a restaurant called Cafe Zambezi, he said we were bound to find someone who knew where Ngoma Zanga Lodge would be and we did find a chatty Congelese who took it upon himself to escort us there, now isn’t that hospitality.

This was home for a week. Welcomed with by a bright smile from Soneli. We checked in, we did not waste any time, we were going to see Vic Falls, never mind we’ve been in that car all day, never mind it is blazing hot, we were excited. We drive the 15 minutes it takes to get to the falls. The falls is at the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Yes we may be excited to see the falls but we do realize we are tired we would rather see the falls from the bridge and take on the trails the following day. But there was no sound. No thunderous roaring. Silent! That struck us as odd! It’s Victoria Falls it’s supposed to make noise. But it was just the sound of people and baboons!
So we have to get a border gate pass to get to the bridge. We found ourselves a tour guide, I use tour guide as loosely as possible (He did know his stuff though). We start the walk towards the bridge to view the falls and where people bunjee jump into the gorge. Life dream, that is not fulfilled! These were my mother’s exact words, seeing I sponsored this trip you are not bunjee jumping, not with my money. You can come back with your own money and die with your money. You would think she would stop there, right. NO! She says and if you also want to kill me with a heart attack because I am frightened for your life, carry on! I don’t know about you guys, but I don’t know a single person who would carry on after that. So I was reduced to watching people plunge into the gorge!
Now our tour guide is very blunt, he says you came to Livingstone at the wrong time. EXCUSE ME!!! “The falls is dry right now. What we have now is what we call a dead falls!” EXCUSE ME, SAY THAT AGAIN. I DON,’T THINK I UNDERSTAND! “You were better off coming in April.” Fun Fact or maybe not so much combined with the classic mistake of not checking a water falls pattern because we all assume the waters are falling all the time (For all the smart people who know to check for this, good for you and I am not so secretly despising this!) IN LIVINGSTONE DURING DECEMBER THEY HAVE WHAT THEY CALL A DEAD FALLS. This is what we were looking at when we got there…


A whole gorge of nothingness… NO FALLING WATERS ā˜¹ā˜¹ā˜¹šŸ™šŸ™ There’s supposed to be water across the length of this cliff!
We are epic-ly bummed. For us the falls was the ultimate goal for the trip. If we were not going to see anything, do anything, we would at least see the falls, but we found ourselves staring at the Zambezi below lacking ferocity. We returned to the lodge, despondent and not sure of how to spend the rest of our days in Livingstone. We decided we would laze about the next day, stay in, rest, I mean it was blazing hot. Said everybody who is not amused about a situation.


At least we had these beautiful pictures on display at the lodge… my tone does not suggest it but I loved these pictures. I looked at these every morning in the breakfast area and I loved them. They honestly helped with the loss of not seeing the falls. After enough sulking, we got it together and decided we would enjoy everything else Livingstone had to offer. As we drove around Livingstone we accidentally found ourselves by the beautiful river side hotel of ‘Aha David Livinstone Safari Lodge and Spa’



We gladly spent part of the afternoon here. We would later come back to have Christmas Dinner. Whilst here, someone suggested we visit Big FIVE game reserve and we went over there to hang out with the Lions and Cheetah’s and by that I mean, watching them from the other side of the fence and not engaging in life threatening activities like ‘a walk with lions’ yes this coming from the girl okay with plunging into a gorge. Priorities! And we also had the most spectacular experience with the elephants.


Us in AWE!!

She looks so calm in the picture, yup because cabs. When we went to see the big ones, she flinched at every sound. And its like the universe knew she was there, the lions starting roaring from their different fences. You could feel the powet of the roar in your body. She begun to run, and my mother does not run because she has bad legs but she tried. And till today we dont know where she was going to run to because we were surrounded by fences containing lions!


That guy up there, these guys and a whole pride of others created all that roaring and prompted a very early exit. We had played with life for long enough.
It was during our trip to see the Big FIVE, we bumped into our family friends also on holiday in Zambia and as we stood there sharing our disappointment about the falls, a couple who over heard our conversation said don’t worry about the falls just cross over into Zimbabwe, no DEAD FALLS there. It is roaring that side. Don’t take your cars, take a taxi that way you way you don’t have to worry about clearing your cars. And just like that, the excitement for Victoria Falls returned.
We returned to the Safari and Spa, celebrated the birth of my Lord Jesus Christ. The day ended with the full expectation and excitement of Vic Falls.

A toast to close off, a day that kick started the best of times in Livingstone.
‘Musing of that Malawian Girl’

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