Readers Travel

A Subtle Thief of your Heart: Victoria Falls, Zambia (Part 3)

April 9, 2019

We didn’t see Victoria Falls in all her grandeur, the full force of the Zambezi cascading but what we did see was absolutely magical!
With very little fuss we crossed into Zimbabwe. The immigration officer notices us trying to figure out which line to join, the signs are not great (turns out Zambia is not the only one failing in the great signs category). She calls out, ‘Where are you going?” To see Vic Falls. “Come to the front of the line! No need to waste your time!” At a border crossing no less. By far the easiet border crossing I have ever experienced in my life. That is understanding tourism! These Zimbabweans understood that all the $20 Zambia was losing with that ‘dead falls’ was going straight into their economy, struggling as it may be.
From the border it’s a 100m walk to the entrance of the park and when you get there what do you do, typical tourist stuff… you pose with the welcome sign

There was excitement, there was people taking pictures and most of all there was the sound we wanted to hear when we first got to Livingstone, the thunderous roar of the falls. When you enter the park, you are enveloped into a canopy of trees that I believe have stories to tell and all you hear is the sound of the falls for almost 300m and then a small opening in the trail and you see it. In the distance. It doesn’t look like water, you could confuse it for a confused and weird vertical snow storm that eventually puffs up at the bottom, but it really is just water and spray.

We need to get closer, we have to walk the trail. It’s not a tiring trail, it’s an exciting one because each steps means you are getting closer to the heart of the falls. Bumped into David Livingstone along the way. “My fellow explorer, what a wondrous sight, befitting a Queen, I shall name it Victoria Falls. Lets stop here and allow these good people to take pictures of us for this discovery we have made and act a little like we don’t care” Use your best David Livingstone imitation, I have 😜

Carrying on, we are still a distance away and that is where we want to go.

Eventually we get to the heart of the falls, after a few stops ofcourse, that trail is long, enjoyable but long!!!

The Devil cataract greets you, personally I don’t want to know why it’s called that because my mind goes to the place where that when the falls is at it’s full force, the spray of the falls covers the trail, you don’t know where you are going, miss the barriers and plunge to your death over there…

Then you stand in awe, at Victoria, I can understand why it is called Victoria Falls, Queen Victoria, love her or hate her, was a force to be reckoned with.

Not at her best, but still majestic. I can only imagine what it would be like if every inch of that cliff is covered in falling water, the force of hitting the Zambezi below creating a constant flow of sprays. It could be wonderful but get this, I preferred it like this because we had the opportunity to walk around without raincoats, actually feel the spray of the water. To be cooled down by them, to feel that you had come in contact with something powerful, something profound and unexplainable. Something that would echoe is the recesses of your mind for what I believe will be for a lifetime. To have touched something truly great and magical.

‘Musings of that Malawian Girl’

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